Hardware
Computers start with Hardware..... It used to be the Tower, Monitor, Keyboard, Mouse, Speakers and Printer but hardware now also possibly includes a Router, high speed Modem, USB hub, second printer, scanner, UPS and surge protector. We will discuss and give tips on each of these.
Notebook or Desk
Top
Many people like the idea of a notebook (used to be called a
Laptop) computer since it is much more mobile. Apart from price,
notebooks have trade-offs (disadvantages) in performance - these
include generally smaller display, slower performance, more awkward
mouse and keyboard and limited peripherals. So unless you need
the portability or don't care about the trade-offs, the desk
top makes more sense. However, the technical issues are generally
the same, so only a desk top version is discussed here.
The name comes from the vertical structure but it simply means the place where most of the components are housed. When you buy a computer you should be aware of the items listed below that are housed in the tower. Note that the only real difference between a full-size and compact tower is the expansion capability. Larger towers allow for later addition of new audio and video cards plus internal hard drives etc. They probably also have a larger power supply to support these items.
Memory (RAM) - Minimum 2GB or if you are planning to edit Photos or Videos, then a minimum of 2GB with 4GB recommended. Memory speed (FSB or Front Side Bus) should be 800 MHz or more. You cannot specify more than 4GB unless you use Windows 64bit. Note that the total memory usable is 4GB so if you have a video card that uses 256MB this is part of the 4GB. So in this case, if you buy 4GB or RAM, only 3.75GB is actually used by the main CPU.
Disk Drive - Minimum 60GB - recommended is as much as is reasonably affordable. If you are planning to store many photos, music tracks or videos, then 160GB would be a minimum.
Video Card - Most people will need a separate Video card to accommodate Vista but integrated video will suit if you have Vista basic. The card should preferably have 256MB or more of its own RAM.
Sound Card - Integrated sound will suit most people unless you plan to listen to a lot of music or you are a serious "gamer". In that case, a separate sound card is called for. The integrated capability or sound card must also suit the speakers you get.
Optical Drive(s) - Minimum CD-RW so you can read CD-ROMs and burn (write) them as well. You need this to make Music CDs and back-ups of your data. DVD read capability is a must and DVD burn capability is highly recommended. Although you can't copy DVD movies (other than home made ones) and there are still compatibility issues (not every DVD you burn will play in every DVD player), they are handy for large backups. This is especially true if you plan to store a lot of photos, videos or music on your computer. The best configuration for many people is a CD/DVD player (that is, with read capability) plus a second drive with DVD/CD-RW capability (can write or burn DVD's & CD-ROMs). To find out if your home DVD player will play the format (DVD+R, DVD-R etc) that your DVD burner produces, go to this site and enter the player model number.
Floppy Disk Drive - Many new computers do not have a floppy drive but if you want to transfer data from old floppies either that you have or you would get from someone else, then a floppy drive is worth having. The alternative to a floppy drive is a card reader with a memory card or a memory key. The advantage is that memory cards can have much higher capacity (128MB - 1GB) yet are much smaller than floppies.
The traditional monitor was a CRT but all new systems now come with flat screen LCD displays (right). They are smaller (in depth and footprint), are "cool" and give a sharp picture if set up correctly and the prices keep coming down. LCD screens come with a "Native Resolution" and for maximum sharpness, the display should be set to this (more below).
| Display | Usage | Comments |
| 640 x 480 | <1% | Antiques |
| 800 x 600 | 8% | Usually 17” |
| 1024 x 768 | 48% | Usually 19” but also 17” and some laptops |
| 1280 x 1024/800 | 36% | LCDs, 19” or 21" or larger - many widescreens. More common with advanced users. |
| Higher | 6% | 22" to ~30" - also many widescreens |
Many LCD displays have a native resolution of 1280 x 1024 and if set to this for maximum sharpness, everything on the screen will be smaller than you are used to. However, if you use Display in Windows Control Panel you can adjust many of the fonts, icons and other items to be larger yet keep the sharpness. The result comes close to being the best of both worlds. Other people are happy to set the resolution to a non-native setting (e.g. 1024 x 768) and find the sharpness to be acceptable.
If you are planning to do quality photographic work on your computer (e.g. you are planning to use Photoshop) then screen colour accuracy is very important. CRT's can all be adjusted to give accurate colour but older/cheaper LCD displays may have difficulty. Most new LCD displays have good enough colour accuracy for most people and premium units are available for people working in the graphics industry. More on Colour calibration.
To avoid problems with the mouse, use an optical mouse - they cost less than the aggravation caused by the old style! If you get a "wireless" mouse (and/or keyboard), remember that they'll need new or re-charged batteries every few weeks (depending on the model and how you use it).
Keyboard
Almost any keyboard is OK. Higher priced versions have
extra keys and controls for commonly used items like
sound level etc.
Speakers
Most new computers come with a sub-woofer and 2 small speakers.
If you want 5.1 sound, you'll need 4 speakers plus the
sub-woofer.
Other items in tower
You should make sure your computer also has the following:
- NIC (Network Interface Card) - has an Ethernet 10/100Mbps port for connection to a local Network (using a Router) or a high speed Modem. Most ISPs offering High-Speed service (e.g. Sympatico, Cogeco and Eagle) have a strong preference for a connection to the NIC and not a USB port.
- Modem - connects to the phone for Dial-up Internet or to send/receive Faxes from the Computer.
- USB Ports - at least 6 and preferably 8 or more. Universal connection to peripherals such as printers, scanners, cameras, card readers, mouse, extra hard drive, etc. Recent computers should be USB 2.0 which is much faster.
- If you plan to use an older printer (e.g. 6 years old or more), you'll also need a parallel/printer port (connector).
Router
If you want to connect two computers together (by cable) and/or you simply want
to have two computers share one high speed modem, then you'll need a Router.
Costing about $60, once installed they are usually very trouble free. If
you have Vista or Windows XP on both computers (or even 98SE), set up is
handled by Microsoft's Network Wizard. You can then designate files on each
computer that are accessible to the other. One very valuable benefit is that
each computer can be backed up to the other. The other major benefit is sharing
a high speed modem and high speed internet service. Operation is transparent
and each user seems to have a separate high speed Internet service. If you
have an office, you may also want to share a printer.
If running a cable between your two (or more) computers is difficult, then you
could use Wireless Networking for a few hundred dollars more.
Wireless Routers are not only more expensive, they are also slower, less
reliable and must be configured properly to avoid
security issues. Since they use ever changing standards,
future additions may prove difficult as well. Cable (Cat
5 with an Ethernet connector) works well and is well worth
the "trouble".
See security page for a recommended
Router. More on Routers from
Answer.com.
High Speed Modem
For operation over the phone line using DSL (Digital Subscriber Line - sometimes
called ADSL for Asymmetrical Digital Subscriber Line) or over cable. The
modem converts the ethernet or USB format to the cable or DSL format. When
you first connect it or turn it on, it has to establish a connection with
the other end that may take a minute or so. Once connected it will stay connected
unless there is a problem with the line. Most modems automatically re-connect
after a break. Once connected, it will then allow the computer (or router)
to connect over the Internet to your ISP - that is, to log in.
USB Hub
If you need more USB connections than you already have, you can get a USB hub.
Connect your computer to its input and your extra peripherals to the outputs
(usually 4 to 1). A USB Hub (and any USB port) actually supplies a small
amount of power but if your peripherals require any significant power,
you'll need to connect the Hub's power supply.
Ink-Jets
The cheapest printers (or "All in Ones") are ink-jets.
The only other real option is a laser printer. Most ink-jets
are cheaper to buy and produce colour prints. However, their
ink price per page (~6c to 9c) is about 2 to 3 times more,
they are usually slower and their black and white text definition
is usually inferior to a laser printer. Colour Laser printers
at about $500 have a cost per page about 6 times their B&W
cost per page (~18c vs ~2.8c Cdn) (plus cost of paper) and
their colour quality for photos is not nearly as good as an
ink-jet. However, they are fast and excellent for general text
and graphics.
Scanner
If you want to take a paper document and put it in your computer you'll need a Scanner. Most scanners at almost any price will do basics well enough. If you want to scan photos, then plan on paying more and buy from a Photo printer company like Epson, Canon or HP. If you want to scan slides, and if you want to make quality prints from them, then do some research - you'll probably end up buying a Nikon or Minolta or other camera company scanner for $500 up.
Uninterrupted Power Supply (UPS)
For best surge protection and to carry your computer for a few minutes through a power outage while you safely shut down, you'll need a UPS. Be sure that its capacity is enough for all the equipment you plan to plug into it. Battery life is not critical - does it matter if you have 10 minutes instead of 5 minutes to shut down? For more info, see APC - the leader in the UPS field. Look for a high capacity (more than 500VA), voltage regulation and a reputable brand.
Surge Protectors
Surges in power are one of three kinds:
- Low level - slight
power variations and/or small spikes. Although common,
these will not damage electronic equipment - a computer
power supply will absorb the variations with no damage.
- Mid-level - lightning
induced or extreme spikes due to major nearby power problems.
These are very rare and extremely rare in home situations
where a long power line effectively smooths the spikes.
In some factory situations or occasionally in rural areas
when lightning hits very close (e.g. next door), there
could be a problem with damage to electronic equipment.
In this case a surge protector would help - but only
the one time - if this happens, you should replace the
surge protector. Some surge protectors have an indicator
to show the protection has been "used".
- Direct hit - Direct lightning hit on the power line or telephone line to your house. In this case, power surge protection won't help. The surge will destroy the protector and many of your electrical appliances. Fortunately, this situation is rare unless you live on top of a lightning prone mountain.
Your computer will also need software - look at our software page for help on this. If you plan to use your computer for Digital Photography, look at our Photography and Images page.