
Computers (and digital cameras) use the following file formats:
RAW - unprocessed and uncompressed - used only by digital camera users wanting to make their own processing choices and not leave it to the camera. Usually results in a bigger file and therefore is slower to transfer to your memory card and fewer RAW images will fit on a card. If you want to make up for errors in taking the photo (e.g. exposure errors), this is the way to go. The errors need not be yours - the camera is rarely perfect in converting to a jpeg file.
TIFF - uncompressed - very large files but best possible quality (same as RAW) - common for files from scanner and occasionally used in digital cameras. Not suitable for e-mailing. If you have RAW, basically a waste of time.
JPG or JPEG - compressed to a varying degree. At minimum compression, file size is about 25% of TIFF but few people can tell the difference - even when made into a large print. At medium compression, file size is about 10% of TIFF and ideal for e-mailing. At maximum compression, file is 2.5% of TIFF and suitable only for small images and not suitable for printing. As you you can see, as compression increases, quality decreases but file size also decreases. Make sure you take the photo in "high quality" if you plan to print the photo in a large size.
GIF - may be compressed but has a limited colour range. Not used for photos but extensively used in Web site images and clip art.
Note: These formats greatly affect the file size
(KiloBytes or MegaBytes) but have no effect on picture
size or number of pixels.
Pixels are
individual pieces of data - each pixel has a specific colour
and specific brightness. Each photo consists of many pixels
with the exact number depending on the camera or scanner
- the more there are, the more definition in the photo.
Similar to "dots" (as in "dots per inch")
on a printer.
Picture size is measured in inches or centimeters.
To get a particular picture size, you specify the number of pixels
per inch (e.g. a minimum of 200 pixels per inch) and depending on how
many pixels in your photo, your print size is determined. So if you
want a particular print size and your pixels are already decided, then
you'll need to adjust the pixels per inch. To do this you usually will
need some form of software. Windows XP includes such software (see
next item) - other versions require that you use your favourite photo
program.
There is another option - you can "re-sample" so that the number of pixels is changed; but you lose definition and you'd not want to do this for normal printing unless there was no other choice. "Re-sampling" using (e.g.) bi-cubic, will also require you to use your favourite photo program.
If you have Windows XP, simply double click on the image in a folder and Windows Picture and Fax Viewer will open the picture Full Screen or as large as it can be made on the screen. For looking at photos from Digital cameras, this is only true for jpg files - if you want to look at RAW images as a thumbnail or a slide show, you'll need the Windows XP (only) "upgrade" from Microsoft. Their RAW Image Thumbnailer and Viewer is a free “PowerToy” for Windows XP that provides the ability to view, organize, and print photos captured in RAW image formats from supported Canon and Nikon digital cameras. It also enhances the photo info available when you hover over a file name. Get your copy here. Otherwise you'll have to use either Photoshop's "Bridge" or proprietary Canon or Nikon software to view RAW files.
Both Windows Picture and Fax Viewer and RAW Image Thumbnailer and Viewer also provide simple slideshows, and printing.
If you don't have Windows XP, double clicking will open the picture in your "default program".
If you don't want to use your default program, you need to modify the file type list - more here.
If you would like to make a slide show with accompanying sound and effects, probably the easiest way is to use Microsoft's Photo Story 3. This is available to XP users only and can be downloaded from Microsoft for free. Another popular free program that produces a slide show is Irfanview (it also does other things - a highly recommended program - more below!)
Posting your Photos on the Internet
There are basically 3 ways to share photos:There are hundreds of Programs available and they all have advantages and disadvantages. Below are some recommendations:
If you are serious about optimizing then printing your own photos at home, you need to worry about Colour Calibration.
Why Calibrate
Typically, you will adjust photos using a program like Photoshop,
then print them. To be useful, you'll want colours on your print
to be the same as on your screen but "out of the box",
this is usually not true. A further requirement - especially
if you do commercial photography - is that the prints must have
the same colours as the original subject. This latter means the
monitor must be calibrated using hardware measuring systems.
The product recommended is the Spyder3
Pro at $169US. Other systems go up from here! The best value
on the market for hardware calibration is Pantone's
Huey at $90US but results may not be much better than than
achieved manually - see next item. Also, you need to have software
for editing photos that reads ICC profiles - e.g. Adobe Photoshop.
For a simple calibration method - not intended for commercial
users - read on.
Basic Monitor Calibration - using
your eye's judgement only
First, use the monitor's buttons to adjust
basic brightness and/or contrast to set the white and black
levels. White should be obviously white but not such that
you get eye-strain. In some LCD monitors, it may be still
too bright with brightness all the way down. But you can
reduce it further by adjusting the 3 colours down but keeping
the same ratios. Also check to see if your video card allows
adjustments - to access this, go to Control panel, select Display then Settings then Advanced.
Second, adjust white using the monitor colour adjustments. First select a colour temperature (6500K) or colour profile (sRGB) so that you are in the ball-park. Then adjust so that white is white with no hint of any colour. To help with this, download this simple monitor calibration chart (to save it, choose save target (or link) as). The chart has black, white and grey areas as well as a couple of "less than black" areas so you can make sure your black is not too black (if possible). You may need to tweak brightness again but make sure you end up with a truly white white.
Third, adjust greys using gamma. If black is at one "end" and white is at the other, gamma controls "in between". The easiest way to adjust gamma is with the colour calibration utility that comes with Abobe PhotoShop Elements and Photoshop CS. It gets installed in your Control Panel when these programs are installed. Keep the monitor calibration chart on the screen while calibrating and be careful to end up with the grey having no trace of colour. If you want to test if you succeeded, download this gray scale and check that ALL the greys have no colour cast. If you succeed, you probably have a monitor much better than average as well as a lot of patience.
For a more detailed discussion on the whole subject, go to Dry Creek Photo's Monitor Calibration, epaperpress or Northlight Images.
Printer Colour Calibration
Second, you should calibrate your printer so it
has (as near as possible) the same colour as the monitor. Use your
printer driver adjustments for this. Every printer is different
so details cannot be provided here. But explore your Printer Properties
(and/or Preferences) and if it's a Photo Printer, you'll find that
you can adjust the colour. Then print a sample colourful photo
and compare it to the picture of it on your monitor. Make adjustments
and print again. You'll use quite a bit of ink, but the results
can be worth it.
If all the above is still not satisfactory, you may need to upgrade your monitor, software or printer.
Almost any colour printer will print an acceptable photo if you use quality paper. The advantages of Photo printers (e.g. HP's PhotoSmart series, Epson Stylus Photo series or Canon's Photo Printer series) are:
As new models become available, speed, colour accuracy and archive quality all improve.
In the end, if you want to buy a camera, a printer or software, you have to make a decision. With a computer and your connection to the Internet, you can get the opinion of many experts and after researching for yourself, a decision can be made. Listed below are some sites that provide information and reviews - particularly on cameras.
But in looking at these be wary of old reviews (things can change in as little as 6 months).
Shopping for High Quality Digital Camera and Printing Equipment
For specifications, the best sources are the manufacturer's web sites. To find the site for the manufacturer you chose, use Google to search then select the result described as the manufacturer's site. If possible, you should then navigate to the manufacturer's Canadian site.